Hotels and accommodation, activities and attractions in Somerset, Bath and Exmoor

Whether it’s dipped into a dark espresso, eaten straight from the bag on the way to work, smothered in strawberry jam or enjoyed as a sandwich filled with bitter strips of dark chocolate, the croissant is essential to the traditional French breakfast, central to French culture and its crescent shape an emblem of French national identity.

While croissants are enjoyed nation-wide, the passion for maintaining the high quality of this baked pastry is greatest in Paris, a city in which croissants are eaten for breakfast, lunch or for a snack, enjoyed both when savoury and sweet and, so as to please as many as possible, vary the most in terms of shape and texture according to the bakery in which they’re produced: flaky, crisp and multi-layered or bread-like croissant rolls.

Not to be missed is the Patisserie Millet at the Seventh arrondissement in the bohemian Left Bank, three blocks south of the Place des Invalides. This small, elegant shop with old wood furniture and rustic decor never ceases to welcome customers with its delicious smell of baking pastry, since there is always a fresh batch of croissants to serve and a new batch just going into the oven. In the basement, the well-respected, expert pastry chef, Denis Ruffel, turns out an astonishing 500 croissants every day which are warm with light, crumbling layers and crispy to bite. If you’re looking for a bit of variation, the Poujarun bakery, only a few blocks to the west of the Patisserie Millet serves up croissants which are just as delicious, but larger and heavier since they are made from the thicker brand of butter, ‘Beurre d’Isigny.’

Another popular bakery, selling a wider variety of types of pastry is Le Moulin de la Vierge (166, Avenue du Suffren). Andrew Lafort, the last living representative of this family bakery is something of a pastry-baking guru in Paris and makes batches of tasty croissant rolls. Be sure to try the more adventurous ‘pain de champagne’ and the ‘pain au raisin’, a pastry swirl made with raisins and a light, fluffy custard. Finally, Le Notre (10, rue St. Antoine), another bakery selling everything from croissants to cakes and baguettes, not only sells croissants baked at a temperature so carefully monitored that the pastries really do feel as thought they are light enough to melt in the mouth; the place also has a spectacular window display which is worth a visit in itself. Go and admire the perfectly presented ‘opera’ (three-tiered chocolate cake) and ‘fraisier’ (strawberry sponge cake). Be warned that the prices here veer toward the outrageous.

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